Vincenzo Giordano never expected to get into the cheese business. It was basically second nature to love dairy growing up around farmers and cheesemakers in Rionero in Vulture, a historic hilltop town in the Italian region of Basilicata. Yet what started as a fun passion project grew into a beloved community staple.
“I’ve always been interested in the variety of cheeses that Europe has, and when I started 27 years ago, I noticed there was a lack of that kind of cheese in this country,” he said. “So, I decided to embark on an adventure.”
Giordano European Cheese Shop is a fundamental part of the Rochester Public Market, a small storefront nestled beside well-loved restaurant Fiorella, providing European cheese and specialty products since 1999.
A typical Saturday for Vincenzo starts around 5:30 a.m. He’s often joined by his five children and a few close friends who start taking cheeses and meats out of the coolers, preparing for the endless line of customers that will visit the shop throughout the day. When the doors open at 7:30 a.m., there’s already a line forming outside. For the next seven hours, the lines only grow larger as market-goers browse the counter and coolers lined with imported cheeses and meats. Vincenzo said on a Saturday, the tiny shop serves a minimum of 300 people from their collection of more than 50 different types of exotic cheeses.
“It was supposed to be just a little hobby, but I met people and they’re interested in products that they’ve seen or tried in Europe,” Vincenzo said. “We decided, ‘you know what, let’s expand the line a little bit more.’”
It’s no surprise the shop is so popular — Giordano European Cheese Shop is the only business in downtown Rochester specializing in European cheese and accoutrements (a close second is Rubino’s Italian Foods in Greece). The growing demand for these items (and the desire to enjoy retirement from his former career as an architect) led Vincenzo to divide the responsibilities of operating the shop with his eldest daughter, Stefania Giordano.
Stefania’s journey at the shop started when she was a little girl helping her father behind the counter. Since then, she has taken on the role of shop manager; Vincenzo plans to slowly shift over operations to Stefania full-time.
“I’d always hoped [the shop] stays in the family, and I’m very happy to continue it,” Stefania said. “I’m so excited to embark on this with my dad.”
When the shop isn’t open, Vincenzo and Stefania spend their time traveling to product fairs in places like New York City and California where they meet producers, importers and, of course, find new products. But to find authentic European goods, the duo travels to Europe at least once a year to look for unique cheeses and other products of the best quality.
“Our motto is that if we don’t like it, we don’t want to bring it in,” Vincenzo said. “Because if a cheese doesn’t sell, it is not good for us or our customers.”
Beyond artisanal cheese, the shop also offers imported meats, crackers, olives, nuts and olive oil made from the trees grown in their hometown in Basilicata.
“It’s as close to a traditional meal as you can get,” Stefania said.
But for the Giordanos, the shop is more than just a place to sell their products — it’s a community. Vincenzo’s upbringing in a close knit community in Rionero in Vulture has informed how he runs the shop.
“It brings people together,” he said. “We get to know our clients, and we care about them … what we like a lot is (when they) become friends.”
Stefania hopes to host more events like wine pairings and tapas nights at the shop. She envisions it as a place that’s not only the local go-to for cheese, but also a place where people can gather, meet new friends and bond over their shared love for cheese and European culture.
“That’s what makes cheese fun,” she said. “It’s a close experience that you’re sharing with friends.”
Meili Shepard is a Rochester based freelance writer and student at University of Rochester. Her passions are food and culture journalism. Follow her @meilishepard.
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